Jim Michalak's Boat Designs

118 E Randall, Lebanon, IL 62254


A page of boat designs and essays.

(1October 2014) This issue will be about guessing at hull weight while designing. The 15 October issue should report the Sail OK happenings.

THE BOOK IS OUT!

BOATBUILDING FOR BEGINNERS (AND BEYOND)

is out now, written by me and edited by Garth Battista of Breakaway Books. You might find it at your bookstore. If not check it out at the....

ON LINE CATALOG OF MY PLANS...

...which can now be found at Duckworks Magazine. You order with a shopping cart set up and pay with credit cards or by Paypal. Then Duckworks sends me an email about the order and then I send the plans right from me to you.

THE SAIL OKLAHOMA BOATING FESTIVAL...

...will take place at Lake Eufala on October 9 - 13. I plan to be there on the 10th and 11th and give a talk about Design Your Own Boat. There is a lot going on and you can read about it at SAIL OKLAHOMA .

Left:

Chuck L's Caprice has been bought and sold a few times. Here it is in the latest colors. This is the boat I rode rn the Texas200 a few year's back.


Contents:

 

Contact info:

jim@jimsboats.com

Jim Michalak
118 E Randall,
Lebanon, IL 62254

Send $1 for info on 20 boats.

 

 


Guessing At Weight

HISTORY...

I worked in a missile company for about 13 years and met weight engineers all the time. Looking back at the experience I might say there were three personality types of engineers. Type A was interested in power, pay, promotion and politics and not so much in hardware. Management was mostly made of Type A's. Type B guys plugged away at their work with the idea of finishing it by normal quitting time and going home - or at least looking busy until quitting time. And Type C's were the new guys, right out of college and still full of enthusiasm and patriotism. It usually took about five years for a C to evolve into an A or B. Advance design, where the real weight guessing was done, was usually full of Type A's managing some Type C's. But when a program starting getting hot some Type B's might be brought in to do some reliable work. Then managers ran the risk of the Type B reminding everyone that the Advanced Design Group had never won a program or made any actual flying hardware in the 20 years of the group's existance. (The missiles being assembled out in the shop were designed by other companies.) And the Type B's might point out that the calculations, which had been done by the Type A's and C's, upon which the program's future was based, were hopeless.

ENTER MISSILE BALONEY...

And it came to pass that I, still a young type C at the time, was teamed up with Harry, a type B weights engineer, on an "advanced cruise missile" program. I was a strength engineer at the time but was quite curious of how the weights guys did their work. Given a half dozen concept missiles at a Monday meeting, Harry would produce detailed weights for each say by Thursday. I was wowwed!

One day Harry showed me how it was really done. He had secreted in an obscure book a graph he had made that plotted the weight vs the volume of existing missiles, the source of the info being Jane's All The World's Whatever. The data points formed a straight line on his graph. That meant that in spite of variations in size and shape, they all had the same density! So Harry's work was simply to figure the volume of the proposed missile and multiply that by that universal density and, Voila!, you have an accurate weight of the proposed missile. Doing that did not take four days, of course. It might be done in a few minutes in the privacy of the potty and the other days spent looking busy.

The reason the missile chart worked so well, Harry said, was that missiles are always jammed totally full of stuff. There was no empty volume to upset the average density calculation. The average density might change a bit with history as new technology made for denser packaging, for example when the guys in the shop found they could install oversized wire bundles into the fuselage by pounding them in with hammers.

And Harry assured me the current average density of missile was the same as that of baloney, similar to that of water. He called it "missile baloney" and you could get the correct weight of a new proposed design by imagining it to be a giant baloney sausage and that was all there was to it. So if your missile was say 20" in diameter and 20' long it would have about 43 cubic feet of missile and it would weigh about 2600 pounds fueled up and ready to go. Of couse you would not report to the Type A's that the weight was "about 2600 pounds". You would say something like 2624.6 pounds or 2587.2 pounds. If you knew the head Type A had a pet concept you would make that one be the lightest.

Harry assured me that any further work would simply be to find out how that weight was distributed among the missile's elements because the baloney had "local lumpiness". But the total could never vary far from the first guess.

I was of course sworn to secrecy about the method. But one day a young Type C engineer tried to impress the Type A's by writing up a memo of the one line missile weight graph and presenting it as his own. They fired him! No kidding.

Harry went to work on his "Grand Unified Baloney Theory Of The Universe".

ENTER BOAT BALONEY...

When I started drawing boats about 10 years ago I saw a need to estimate the weight of new designs using typical plywood construction and wondered if there might be such a thing as "boat baloney"? I came up with the following chart:

boat baloney

I'm afraid the method does not work so well with boats because boats aren't usually jammed full of stuff - there is lots of empty volume. And because boat hulls are built in entirely different ways by different people, even when they use the same set of plans. To illustrate that I'll recall the time I took my old Gloucester Gull dory, the Payson/Bolger boat, out rowing with Dan Knodler who also has a version of the same design. Mine was made of 1/4" plywood with taped seams and totally stripped out. It weighed 65 pounds. Dan's was built by a pro from 1/2" plywood with hardwood seats and gingerbread and weighed about 150 pounds. I think Payson said one built right to the plans as he made them weighed about 100 pounds.

Looking at the above chart it seems that empty hull baloney has a density of about 1.5 pounds per cubic foot if lightly constructed to about 3 pounds per cubic foot if heavily constructed. Remember this is just for empty plywood hull structural weight. I would say "lightly constructed" would mean a simple undecked boat like a canoe or rowboat that borders on flimsy. "Heavily constructed" would mean a more complex decked hull with some beef to it. Actually you could make a case that heavy could be heavier than I am showing.

Let's use this issue's feature boat, the shanty boat Shanteuse, as an example of using the chart. This boat is a constant 6' width, 15' long, with a housing box that is 10' long and 4' high. It's total volume is about 300 cubic feet. If we use an average boat baloney denisity of 2.25 pounds per cubic foot as suggested by the chart we would expect the empty hull to weigh about 675 pounds. Not much to figuring that!

The above just estimates the structural weight of the hull, not the ballast, sail rig or motor, etc...

ENTER THE CREW WITH ITS JUNK...

Usually one might figure the weight of the average adult as 175 pounds. But I know some of you weigh twice that and some weigh half that. It's very important with small boats in particular to get a good estimate of the proposed crew weight and be honest with yourself about how many boating friends you have and how often they will really be boating with you.

As for personal gear, food, and water, Dave Gerr recommends about 20 pounds per person per day. Sounds reasonable. For living aboard he says 400 to 1000 pounds of junk per person.

Small outboard motors with a bit of fuel seem to weigh about 50 pounds although it can vary quite a bit. Usually an available motor is easy to weigh on a bathroom scale.

If you want ballast, the old rule for ballast is about 50% of the empty hull weight although its placement is very important. Nowadays one can check the ballast requirements a lot easier than in the olden days because computers are great for this sort of figuring.

Sail rigs don't actually weigh very much. As we saw last issue a 24' mast about the size of a Micro or Birdwatcher mast weighs about 30 pounds. And that is about the most mast a man can step by himself without special gear. The sticks used for booms are easily estimated and modern sailcloth is really quite light, a 100 square foot sail weighing maybe 4 pounds. Leeboards and centerboards can be quite large and heavy.

Add up all the bits and you will have an estimate of the total floating weight of the boat. Then you can get serious about making sure your proposed hull will float it properly by using the methods shown in the last issue.

ENTER THE PLYWOOD PANEL LAYOUT...

And it came to pass that Payson spoke unto Bolger saying, "Go forth and bring unto my people drawings of plywood sheets with the boat parts laid upon that they might be knowing of how much to buy and be not wasteful."

Payson and Bolger didn't invent the plywood panel layout but they popularized it and made it a key element of instant boats. All the plywood parts of the boat are laid out in scale on standard 4' x 8' sheets of plywood on a drawing. The layout is supposed to be a guide to the economical use of the plywood. It doesn't adapt too well to the traditional cut-to-fit style of building. I see in a recent Boatbuilder magazine where Thomas Firth Jones built a Payson/Bolger catboat by traditional methods instead of the taped seam instant method shown on the drawings. He kidded Bolger and company about spending the time to lay out all the parts. But the layout is an important material and labor saver to someone building instant style.

Once you lay out all the parts you can determine how much plywood you will be using. And if you know how much plywood you are using, you know how much the pile of plywood weighs. And since an instant boat is mostly plywood, you get an excellent idea of how much the hull and plywood parts will weigh. Then you can update your idea about the density of boat baloney.

Here is the plywood panel layout for my design Mixer. All the hull parts including the leeboard, and rudder parts are there on four sheets of 1/4" plywood:

Mixer ply panel layout

Wood density varies quite a bit. But a 1/4" sheet of plywood usually weighs about 25 pounds, a 3/8" sheet about 37 pounds, and a 1/2' sheet about 50 pounds.

"But," you say, "there is more wood in the boat than just the plywood. There is the framing wood too." That is true. But then again not all the plywood gets used. Here is a general rule that I use with plywood boats with nail and glue joints that require stick framing and conventional chine logs - allow about 30 pounds per sheet of 1/4" plywood, 45 pounds per sheet of 3/8' plywood, 60 pounds per sheet of 1/2" plywood, etc. Taped seamed boats are lighter than framed boats and can indeed be estimated fairly well using just the weights of the plywood sheets. I think about the only warning I might give when using this method of estimating the weight of a new design is that often the ply panel layout also contains temporary forms that won't be permanently in the hull. Those areas should be excluded from the total. So when I look at the plywood panel layout of Mixer shown above, I think instantly, "No more than 100 pounds in four sheets of 1/4" plywood and taped seams. In fact with the sail rig and hatches stripped off for cartopping it might be around 80 pounds." I don't remember if David Boston who built the first one weighed her.

By the way encapsulating a boat like Mixer will increase its weight. The numbers I mention above would include minimal paint but not epoxy coating. So you might add maybe 10 pounds per gallon used.

Now let's use Shanteuse as an example of getting a close weight estimate of hull weight by using the ply panel layout. When I lay out all of Shanteuse's parts I found it needed eight sheets of 1/4" plywood and six sheets of 1/2" plywood. So a guess at the hull weight, more refined than the baloney weight, would be eight times 30 pounds for the 1/4" sheets and six time 60 for the 1/2" sheets. That totals 600 pounds. When I wrote up the catalog blurb below for Shanteuse I said 700 pounds thinking she has more than the ordinary amount of framing. But I could be wrong. Until someone builds one to plans and weighs it, we won't know.


Larsboat

LARSBOAT, DOUBLE PADDLE CANOE, 15.5' X 30", 65 POUNDS EMPTY

Larsboat was built by Lars Hasselgren to replace a Folboat that had finally met its end. Lars wanted capacity for two, plus decking, as with his old boat.

I took Toto and lengthened it with a 30" plug in the middle to gain capacity. But lengthening a hull with a straight plug like this usually improves a boat in almost every way and Larsboat should be faster than Toto in good conditions. In this case the plug meant I didn't have to refigure the shape of the twisted bow panels as I would if I'd lengthened Toto with an overall stretch. (I can figure twisted panels pretty reliably now, but not back when Toto and Larsboat were drawn.)

The decking was quite simple because even the original Toto could take a forward deck of flat sheets with a center peak. I should add that I feel the decking is very optional. This prototype weighs 61 pounds and deleting the deck might cut another 10 pounds or so. The undecked boat also would have a better cartopping shape. I'd keep the stern chamber. It will ease your mind about taking a big wave over the stern.

This would be a preferred project for someonw who intends to do a lot of cruising and camping. In the Toto camping I've done the sleeping room has been OK, but the storage is limited. Larsboat would be better both because of increased capacity and because there is dry storage under the bow deck.

larslines

The basic hull is taped seam construction needing four sheets of 1/4" plywood for the decked version and three sheets for the undecked version. No jigs or lofting required. Plans are two blueprints with keyed instructions for $20.

The photo above is of Bob Smithson's Larsboat. He customized the decking a bit. I think he also built the boat of 1/8" ply to save weight. I've forgotten what his boat weighed but he did say it was sufficiently rigid for him.

Bob Hoyle built this one without a deck down in Florida:

Paul Moffitt built this one. You can see this is a much better two person boat than the shorter Toto:

And remember Garth Battista's vertical Larsboat?

And the old outboard motor guru Max Wawrzniak often goes for a paddle in his Larsboat:

Larsboat plans are $20.

Contents


Prototype News

Some of you may know that in addition to the one buck catalog which now contains 20 "done" boats, I offer another catalog of 20 unbuilt prototypes. The buck catalog has on its last page a list and brief description of the boats currently in the Catalog of Prototypes. That catalog also contains some articles that I wrote for Messing About In Boats and Boatbuilder magazines. The Catalog of Prototypes costs $3. The both together amount to 50 pages for $4, an offer you may have seen in Woodenboat ads. Payment must be in US funds. The banks here won't accept anything else. (I've got a little stash of foreign currency that I can admire but not spend.) I'm way too small for credit cards.

I think David Hahn's Out West Picara is the winner of the Picara race. Shown here on its first sail except there was no wind. Hopefully more later. (Not sure if a polytarp sail is suitable for a boat this heavy.

Here is a Musicbox2 out West.

This is Ted Arkey's Jukebox2 down in Sydney. Shown with the "ketchooner" rig, featuring his own polytarp sails, that is shown on the plans. Should have a sailing report soon.

And the Vole in New York is Garth Battista's of www.breakawaybooks.com, printer of my book and Max's old outboard book and many other fine sports books. Beautiful job! Garth is using a small lug rig for sail, not the sharpie sprit sail shown on the plans, so I will continue to carry the design as a prototype boat. But he has used it extensively on his Bahamas trip towed behind his Cormorant. Sort of like having a compact car towed behind an RV.

And a Deansbox seen in Texas:

Another prototype Twister is well along:

And the first D'arcy Bryn is to the point the builder can sit and relax in it and imagine boating. You can follow the builder's progress at http://moffitt1.wordpress.com/ ....

Contents


AN INDEX OF PAST ISSUES

THE WAY BACK ISSUES RETURN!

MANY THANKS TO CANADIAN READER GAETAN JETTE WHO NOT ONLY SAVED THEM FROM THE 1997 BEGINNING BUT ALSO PUT TOGETHER AN EXCELLENT INDEX PAGE TO SORT THEM OUT....

THE WAY BACK ISSUES

15oct13, Modifying Boats 2, Jonsboat

1nov13, Modifying Boats 3, Piccup Pram

15nov13, Sail Area Math, Caprice

1dec13, Stretched Stability, Ladybug

15dec13, Trailering, Sportdory

1jan14, Cartopping, OliveOyl

15jan14, Width/Stability, HC Skiff

1feb14, Hiking, Shanteuse

15feb14, Dory Stability, IMB

1mar14, Scram Capsize, Scrampram

15mar14, Bulkhead Bevels, Frolic2

1apr14, Capsize Lessons, RiverRunner

15apr14, AF3 Capsize, Sneakerbox

1may14, Paper Capsize, Blobster

15may14, Prismatic Coefficient, Roar2

1Jun14, Roar2 Repair, Piragua

15jun14, Rend Lake 2014, Toto

1jul14, Mast Tabernacles, Musicbox3

15jul14, Sandell Tabernacle, Mikesboat

1aug14, Taped Seams, Cormorant

15aug14, Plywood Butt Joints, Paulsboat

1sep14, Rowing 1, Vireo

15sep14, Rowing 2, Philsboat

SOME LINKS

Mother of All Boat Links

Cheap Pages

Duckworks Magazine

The Boatbuilding Community

Kilburn's Power Skiff

Bruce Builds Roar

Dave Carnell

Rich builds AF2

JB Builds AF4

JB Builds Sportdory

Hullform Download

Puddle Duck Website

Brian builds Roar2

Herb builds AF3

Herb builds RB42

Barry Builds Toto



Table of Contents